The Lemon Jacket


I owe this post since September, actually, but I was hoping to get better photos. I didn`t manage this since of course the days got shorter and shorter and there is the same old problem with daylight in winter. Being really fed up with this, I just ordered a photo booth set and it should be here by Christmas! We will see if this will be of any help, but since it includes softboxes and bulbs and a set up for the background, I am thinking it must make at least some difference.

Anyway, I finished the jacket a few days before its first outing which was for a special occasion at work. More than ten ambassadors from different countries residing in Estonia accompanied by the people from the State Protocol came to my workplace for a visit and I was one of the hosts. So I wanted something comfortable, yet bright and eye catching to wear. This was my outfit for the day:

The pattern of the jacket is Style Arc Janet and the fabric is cotton bucle from Chanel that I bought from a small local store that brings fabrics straight from Italy. The prices are sometimes really painful, but I have never been disappointed in the fabrics. They also have an online shop but I don´t know whether they would ship internationally: Kangalavka

Funny fact – I got this perfectly matching stretch lining from the same shop about a year earlier, having another project in mind, but how lucky that I never got to that project:

And once again my favorite detail – the piping!

Since the boucle is actually very lightweight and does not hold shape, I interfaced all the pieces apart from the sleeves (maybe I should have done that too because the sleeves crease at the elbows) and I also added even sturdier interfacing for the hem and sleeve hems. The interfacing helps to achieve the crisp look of the front. Also, for the first time I used shoulder pads for a jacket. I bought several options online and thankfully one of the pairs was a good fit – not too bulky and hard and they leave a natural looking shoulder. As for pattern modifications, there were none necessary (do you see why Style Arc is an absolute winner for me?), but I omitted the front closures because I knew that I would never wear it closed anyway.

And since I am a person who likes to match colours, I just had to get the exact shade of shoes to finish off the outfit. Again, funny fact, made in Italy!

My pants are Jalie Vanessa, one of the three four pairs I have made. While writing this, I remembered the fourth pair that I also made in September but that have not made it to the blog either… One day hopefully I will be able to show these too!

Until then, happy sewing!

Three Is Company

Happy New Year!

I have to start the new year with some old news – once again no chance to take photos until now, although I finished and wore the set below on December 21st already.

photo credit: Markus Sein

I usually make a dress for the annual Christmas celebration with colleagues, but this year I knew I was going to be short of time and I thought I would only make two super easy things – a pencil skirt and a sleeveless little top to go with it.

The top is McCall´s 7601, view A and the skirt is Burdastyle 8/2012, model 111 (I have used this pattern before). I must say that this is the one pattern that does not need any adjustments, I need to remember that when planning another pencil skirt!

I used lightweight cotton sateen for the top and I had it in my stash for some summer pants. But when I discovered how well it goes with the brocade I knew I would have to combine the two somehow. The top doesn´t look like much, but it takes surprisingly lot of fabric so basically no leftovers from the yardage I had for pants as the top ate up 1,6 m of fabric!

The front slit is very deep, I raised it by about 5 cm and could raise more but then the bust area becomes too tight. Thankfully there is the bow so it covers up the occasional view of the bra. The next time I would also raise the armscye because I had to choose the bra very carefully for it not to show from there as well.

I am hoping to wear the top in summer as well, with some casual pants and probably not tucked it. For the pencil skirt, I think the tucked in look is better.

Then the idea of a jacket came along while I was making the former two items and I still tried to keep it simple – the pattern is originally without lining. I even decided I would only serge the seam allowances to save time, but couldn´t help it in the end and just two days before the party, cut and sew the lining as well. It is just so much more comfortable and looks fully finished this way, I am super happy I took the time to do it!

The pattern is Simplicity 1421, view A.

As you can see, I omitted the pockets since I think they are a sporty detail and I wanted a more classy look. I think this pattern is great! It sews up really fast (the fabric worked extremely well, too) and is flattering. I might use this one again soon for maybe a more relaxed look.

Overall, I am very satisfied with the outcome as instead of one dress I now have three separates that can be combined with other items I have.

The brocade fabric is simply wonderful, I ordered 6 meters from Italy and if anyone is interested, I have over 3 m of it left and would happily sell it! The composition is 50%PL, 29%VI, 13%MD, 8%CO. The width of the fabric is 144 cm and weight 320g/m. I paid EUR 34/m for it, but I am willing to sell at EUR 30/m! Let me know if you are interested!

Hopefully you have had a great start of the year 2019!

Out Of The Closet: Fur Vest

Hi from Estonia!

Yes, this is the huge change in my life that I mentioned in my previous post! It is hard for me to write about it, without sharing too many personal details, but I guess I owe an explanation, why the background of my photos will be somewhat different from what you would expect from someone living in a Mediterranean country like Greece.

I think everyone has heard at least something about the situation in Greece, since it has been a hot international topic for the past few years already. I have lived in Greece for the past five years, seeing the situation worsen year by year. I am actually a physiotherapist by profession, but during this time, have only been able to work as a volunteer, because the Greek authorities have been extremely slow in the process of my diploma recognition. By now, even the recognition would not help much, because the (official) unemployment rate is 25%.

I am not exactly a stay at home mom type, so this time has been quite tough, although my fiance has been extremely supportive. Nevertheless, when I was offered an interesting job back in Estonia and considering the outlook of Greece, we made a common decision, that I have to go. There will be a lot of travelling, Skype conversations and missing each other, but we will give it a try, hoping that it would not last too long and that we can live under the same roof again soon.

For now, the title of my blog will become a misnomer, but I have decided not to change it or move to a new address.

Travelling with 150 kg of luggage was an experience, but things went very smoothly and I hope to be more or less settled in my new hometown by the end of the next week. I also brought my sewing machine, which thankfully fitted perfectly into my hand luggage, but unfortunately had to leave my dressmaker´s dummy in Athens for now.

As I said in my previous post, I haven´t been able to keep sewing due to the packing and moving process and since I will be working full-time, probably will not keep up the pace as I used to. Until then, I am pulling out a few items from my closet, that I have made prior to this blog, to keep you entertained 🙂

As I woke up in my parents´ house today, the weather was something of a winter wonderland – blue skies and thick fresh white snow that all came down during 24 hours after my arrival to Estonia. It is this years first snow and a tad early, normally the first snow falls in November.

It was a nice chance to take photos of the faux fur vest, based on Burda Easy Fashion AW 2009 issue vest pattern, for which once again I only have a photo to show (when I open the box that contains my pattern stash, I will be able to provide the technical drawing as well).



I cut my vest way shorter, hip length and also added wooden toggle buttons and sewed loops between the fur and lining of the opposite breast of the vest. I think it is my first garment with lining and although maybe not the easiest due to the fur, it taught me a lot.

The pattern itself is very easy, but the fur makes the sewing process quite exhausting – the material is thick and if you make a mistake, picking out the seams is not exactly fun. When I cut the material – on the wrong side, using a razor – it looked as if we had a sick cat in our house, the tufts of fur were all over the place. At first I wasn´t sure that anything could come out of the whole project, it seemed too messy. But here it is:

Due to the mild autumns of Greece, I have worn it quite a lot and enjoyed it very much. I got lucky with the fur, because it feels very nice and luxurious, I haven´t seen anything comparable in the fabric stores anymore. I think it is best worn with a belt, otherwise it can create a somewhat boxy figure.