It is rare that the reason for not having posted something in a while is actually the lack of time to take photos, not the lack of time for sewing. However, weirdly enough, this happened in August. I have actually two finished items to show, but just managed to take the photos of the first one today!
The pattern I used is McCall´s M7351, view C.
There is a chance that I will make the belt too, but until now I have been wearing the dress as it is.
As I already mentioned in previous posts, the summer in Estonia has been exceptionally warm, so the dress has been a life saver as the fabric is cotton poplin, very lightweight but at the same time it has some crispness to it, so as not to look like a huge (used) handkerchief 😀 I bought the fabric from my trip to Paris with my mother a few years ago and it was sold as a 3m coupon. I remember thinking that this is unnecessarily lot but it was exactly what I needed for this dress!
I love the fabric with its retro vibe, I love the pattern and I am considering using it again but perhaps with a more traditional hemline. And lastly but definitely not less importantly – due to its button up style, this is another breastfeeding friendly garment! Win-win!
There is a funny story to this dress as well. I don´t know how you ladies motivated yourself during childbirth, perhaps imagining yourself holding your little one already or visualising some calming natural environments to soothe the labor pain or maybe nothing at all but believe it or not, I imagined wearing this dress and walking with my baby in the pram by the seaside 😀 I had not even yet bought the pattern for the dress!
As said, I rushed taking the photos so unfortunately I don´t yet have a photo of this exact situation to show you, but I have been walking by the sea while wearing this dress and pushing the pram many times already. Our pram is in the same purple shade as the darkest flowers on the dress so it matches very well!
The only changes made were omitting the side seam pockets and using a ready made bias tape for the armhole finishing.
I am enjoying these last days of summer which already have a hint of autumn in the air, although the weather is still perfectly suitable for this dress. And our little Liisa-Mai, who played her role in the creation of this dress, will turn 4 months old tomorrow!
As I mentioned in a recent post, I realized how few of my clothes are breastfeeding friendly, so now I am on a mission of making a few items that would fill the gap. Yes, of course, it is possible to manage with regular clothes as well, but I definitely feel more relaxed when I know that I can feed my baby discreetly basically anywhere should there be a need when our daily plans change, for example.
Ironically enough, the past week has been extremely hot for Estonia and I cannot take little Liisa-Mai out during the day anyway. This is also the reason why these photos are taken in the setting sun with its less than ideal light conditions – this has been the only time to enjoy the outside without having to fear for a heatstroke.
The most visible modification is the length of the zipper of course. I also debated for a long time whether I should do an exposed zipper or not. This beautiful lace zipper (bought from Helsinki a few years back) was the only suitable one in my stash at that moment and I eventually decided I will not hide it. Neither did I have the patience to go next day and buy a regular one 😀
I also lengthened the dress by approximately 10 cm which seemed to be a good idea as it seemed really short. However the ruffle is much longer than I expected and I realized it only after I had sewn everything together. Well, I wasn´t exactly excited about ripping it off and taking the extra length out and also shortening of the ruffle didn´t seem to help much. So while I was staring angrily at my reflection in the mirror, my husband quietly suggested a belt and… it solved the issue although the end result is not exactly what I had in mind.
And once again I omitted the sleeve ruffles even though I had prepared them already! It just seemed that there would be too much going on with the floral, stripes, lace zipper, belt and bottom ruffle!
The fabric is one of the cheapest I have ever used at EUR 7,5/m and the tag stated it is cotton. I am not so sure anymore, it could be some kind of cotton mix since the fabric hardly wrinkles, it came out of the washing machine nearly dry and it seems ironing can be skipped. It still feels very comfortable to wear, though, even in this heat we are experiencing.
And last, but not least, I cant not mention that I had a fantastic experience on July 16th as I attended my first (!) really big open-air concert – the Guns n´Roses Not In This Lifetime tour! As I got home with the official T-shirt, I realized that I now have one more top to go with my red skirt, should I be in the mood OR should it ever happen that I get a chance to see them again! Who would have thought 😀
With little Liisa-Mai around, my wardrobe choices have become somewhat limited as there are too many boxes to be ticked – the garment has to fit reasonably in the bust, fit reasonably in the belly area; be breastfeeding friendly and finally, be suitable for the occasion!
I realized how few of my clothes are actually button-up or wrap style in order to allow comfortable breastfeeding! The other issue is the belly – I have lost most of the baby weight by 8 weeks postpartum, but the belly is resisting, especially as I used to have a pretty flat one prior to pregnancy (of course I would never have agreed to that statement back then, there was always little something too much in my opinion!) and the clothes were sewn to fit that body, not the one I have at the moment.
The pattern I used for the top above is Simplicity 8601 and it is not breastfeeding-friendly, however it does conveniently have a center front seam! So all i did was adding an invisible zipper to the front seam and omit the back closure. I cut size 14 and used view C for my blouse.
I also did not use the facings, but went with white cotton bias tape instead.
I am so satisfied with the result that I think I will repeat it. However, I think three ties on one blouse is a little too much, I would rather prefer either one in the front (and then go sleeveless) or only keep the sleeve ties. My husband also came up with a good idea – to make the front and back piece identical and without the tie – then the blouse would be more like a shirt and could be worn with a belt for example. I need to consider all these options before cutting into the next fabric.
I actually prefer to style the blouse with pants instead of a skirt, but we have had an amazing spring and summer this year so far – much warmer and sunnier than usually and of course this makes the long walks with Liisa-Mai very enjoyable.
The fabric I used is a good quality cotton gingham that a dear friend of mine brought from his business trip to Germany a few years ago. When he gave it to me, I was a little “meh” to be honest, but for this project it is perfect, breathable and I love the light blue color too! I am happy I could find a good use for this old-timer in my fabric stash!
It is hard to get the shade of this baby blue correct in photos, it is definitely brighter than in the photos taken indoors, however slightly duller than on those taken outside 😀
Some close ups too:
Next post is coming soon as I managed to finish a long time unfinished project recently!
Would you believe that with all these years of sewing, I never made a maxi dress? This one is my first!
I have a few ready-to-wear ones for summer, but generally I prefer to enjoy the warm weather in short and light clothes. There is only one maxi dress that I have worn to pieces and it is made of very breathable and lightweight cotton batiste.
However, as the annual Christmas party at my workplace was approaching fast, I needed something that would tick several boxes – appropriate for the environment since this years party was held at an old art nouveau style mansion (it is worth checking it out: Ammende villa), easy and quick to make since I was running out of time, fit me in the current circumstances and preferrably be wearable in the future. I managed to tick all those, plus as a bonus, I could use up some of the fabric from my overflowing stash! Win-win!
So the lucky winner pattern was Vogue 9104:
I am very happy I took the time to look up some blog posts on this pattern because a few of them mentioned the problem with the armholes being too low-cut. I guess it has to do with the weight of the fabric as well, because you need 4.1 meters of it for size 10 and the armholes can easily be dragged lower by the weight of the dress! The pattern also recommends lightweight jersey, but with this amount of fabric, jersey would definitely stretch even more, causing the armholes reaching too low. So just to avoid the trouble, I raised the armholes of my dress by about 2,5 cm and I am thankful I did! Instead of using the facings provided with the pattern, I used bias tape to finish them, another tip from one of the blogs I read!
It took me a while to decide what to do with the lower contrast part of the dress. I had just enough fabric in my stash for the upper part of the dress and I had it already cut out, so the task was to find something suitable for the contrast. It was really not easy. I considered sequins, but eventually they were not in the right shade; I was also thinking about using silvery lurex, but I was afraid the end result would be something in the lines of Ded Moroz, the slavic equivalent of Santa Claus:
In the end I bought some glittery stretch lace and backed it up with matching lining fabric for the lower pieces:
This meant I had to cut the lower details out not four, but eight times and additional seams to join them. Not hard to do, but so time consuming, especially because the lining fabric is slippery and the pieces are quite big. It took a lot of pinning, basting, pressing and sewing. The seams are really long as well! And yes, the glitter was all over the place!
As you can see, the photos are taken at my parents place and my shoes don´t really match the dress, I just borrowed them from my mom for the photos. We actually tried taking photos at the villa since we stayed the night there but initially the cameras battery was dead and the next moment we had time to take the pics was at 3 AM, my husband almost asleep and my own face sleepy as well. The light conditions were not ideal either, but we took a few before going to bed:
The belt I am wearing was a must, I would have felt huge otherwise. It is metallic, but very elastic like spring and I love the leaf motif of the front closure:
Honestly, in my opinion this dress is as good as it gets in terms of the choices an expecting mother has for an evening gown! It is very comfortable and shows enough while hiding enough at the same time! For example I got really tired of wearing tights during the evening and due to the length of the dress, I could just remove them and go on without anything digging into my belly. In addition, since the lower contrast parts are not joined at all, the slits in front and back are quite deep, so there is some sex appeal to the dress as well.
Another great tip I got from reading blogs was to cut a size smaller than usual due to the really extreme looseness of the pattern. So instead of my regular 12, I cut it in size 10 and I think it was absolutely worth it. I also omitted the side pockets, because… who would need them really?
While the dress was halfway finished without the lower pieces attached yet, I also discovered that it would make a great summer dress in short version.
And last but not least, we had a professional party photographer, thankfully, so we managed to get a pic together with my husband, too:
We have a collective holiday every year during the Christmas and New Year so I am totally enjoying it now, preparing some patterns and sewing but also meeting friends and spending time with my family.
Just a few days left until Christmas, may you all have beautiful holidays with your loved ones!
This dress was supposed to be ready in fall, during the golden leaves season, but life happened and eventually I finished it in early December and even then without the flounces that I planned for the sleeves.
The pattern is model 115 from Burdastyle 10/2017 but as you can see, I have skipped the ruffles for the hem and sleeves. Instead, I wanted to cut the double flounce from pattern 117 in the same magazine issue and attach them to the lace inserts of the sleeves. I have them all cut out and prepared for sewing, but there is never enough time, so I have worn the dress as it is already a couple of times.
The pattern of course is simple to sew, but as I was afraid that the main fabric might be too flimsy and cold for the season, I underlined the whole dress using a matching lining fabric. I then made a stupid mistake by sewing the bottom lace detail through both layers and now I have to take extra care while ironing the dress after wash because the lining fabric tends to shrink a little more in wash and that makes the main fabric slightly drape above the first attachment seam. Steam ironing the lining helps, although not 100%.
I love this shade of yellow in combination with dark blue and initially I wanted to make something, combining the yellow fabric, lace and the fabric I got from London in summer (below), but eventually decided that less is more. I might use the leftovers of the yellow lace with that fabric one day, though.
I think the lace fabric is a wonderful find, both in terms of color but also design. Too much of lace I see around is floral so it is refreshening to see something more abstract. I just picked the part of the fabric I liked the most, calculated the length since I wanted it to extend further from the main fabric and then sew it along the lines onto the main fabric using a zig zag stitch. The colors are a bit off in the next two photos.
The fit of the dress at the shoulders is really precise which is surprising because usually Burdastyle patterns tend to be designed for wider shoulders than mine. I used some of the lace for the back yoke just to add interest.
The size I cut is still 38 as usually with Burdastyle but you may already have noticed that there is a practical reason for picking such a style, with no defined waistline 😉
I have also completed another project, an evening gown for the annual Christmas party with the colleagues, more on that in the next post! Until soon!
I don´t know what I would have called the dress myself, but my husband teased me when taking the photos that I look like a nerdy teacher in it! Given that I wore for a recent birthday party, it wasn´t the best thing to hear, but here it is anyway:
The pattern is the Jane dress from Burdastyle Vintage edition A/W 2015, dedicated to the sixties.
It was actually the main reason for buying the special issue back in 2015, but as you know, it often takes me that long before I sew stuff up.
However, my parents recently spent their holiday in Italy, starting from Rome and I managed to convince them to visit some of the fabric shops I visited myself during my own trip to Rome in 2013.
It was a very difficult task for them, my dad initially voted against the fabric my mom wanted to pick by saying it looked like tablecloth! Unfortunately I was taking a nap while my mom desperately sent me photos of various fabrics in Messenger so they ended up buying something that I don´t feel is 100% me, but when I woke up and saw this one among the photos (my mom´s first choice) I just made them go back to the store and get it for me! It was a perfect print for this pattern! It looks a little busy on bigger photos, but the closer look reveals this:
Isn´t it lovely? It is from Fratelli Bassetti Tessuti and I can´t tell the exact composition, but it is some kind of synthetic fabric with enough body and stretch at the same time, easy to cut and sew and fit.
I struggled a bit while trying to find the matching fabric for the details, at first I was sure they must be black, but the longer I looked at the fabric, the more I felt that the dark burgundy was a better match. Of course it was impossible to find fabric with the same characteristics so I got a lightweight crepe fabric in the right shade and used a thicker fusible interfacing to stabilise it.
The hardest part of the dress is the central piece with its round end. I have seen perfect versions online as well as some rather clumsy ones and I guess I fall somewhere in between with my result. This detail took a lot of time and precision to get it done, but still it is not completely symmetrical!
I actually added the button day after the birthday party where I first wore the dress, because once again I finished sewing less than an hour before leaving the house! I love the smart trick by Couture et Tricot who sew an extra button underneath the large one, to support it so that it doesn´t hang downwards, but looks straight. I will add this detail to my dress, too.
I didn´t get into all the couture techniques Couture et Tricot did due to the limited time available. The seam allowances are serged and the hem is finished with fusible hem tape. I also didn´t topstitch as far as the 7 mm the pattern calls for as I remember, but the distance from edge is about 4 mm. My dress is unlined.
The pattern is well drafted and I had absolutely zero issues with the sleeves for example.
I love the feeling of completing something that has been on my mind for so long and it could easily be the quickest I have used up new fabric!
The photos were taken in the new sewing room/office, which still needs some final details as you can see, but we will move in during the upcoming weekend!
So it´s one week into our marriage and I finally have a little bit of time to update the blog.
I will get to the latest sewing project in a minute but I just have to say that the wedding was a dream come true! My vision from the beginning was that since we decided to have a party with friends and family (instead of just doing it in a really close family circle), it had to be simple but fun and memorable with a good band for dancing all night long.
We got all that plus some because the risk we took was choosing the date in September, where the weather is completely unpredictable in Estonia and the wedding day started with the heaviest downpour I have seen in a while and even hail!
It was raining when my dad picked me up from the hairdresser and make up and it was raining when we got to the meeting point with my fiance… and then within a few minutes the sky cleared up and the sun came out so when we walked towards the wedding venue, we didn´t need the umbrella at all! And the rest of the day was calm, warm and sunny so when we had the photos taken, we were actually looking for a shady spot with the photographer Marit Kuusk (you can see her works here)!
The photo with the pink background is taken in our soon-to-be-finished sewing room/office, because we wanted some of the wedding photos to be taken in our home to remember how it was when we tied the knot!
Anyway, many couples in Estonia live happily together and have kids without officially getting married, but we felt this was the right thing for us and it feels amazing! Also, it felt like the right thing to celebrate it with a party and it was a success as we managed to skip all the traditional games that are played in Estonian weddings (that I am not a fan of) and simply have a good time with our guests and dance!
I made a dress for the chance that I get tired of the long wedding gown (which I did not make myself, it was made for me in Riga, Latvia at Ingrida Bridal), but in the end I didn´t change during the party and wore it for the day after since we had invited our guests to take a tour of the house, to see how far we have come with it since last summer. It will be ready to move in in a few weeks so all this is very exciting.
But the dress:
The pattern is from Burdastyle 8/2014 model 116, again one of my immediate favorites at first glance, but it took me that long to make it.
The dress obviously is not a difficult one to make, but the pattern instructions are insane! I just did my own thing from the casing on, and actually did not understand initially that the casing for the waist rubber band has to be created using the seam allowance of the bodice… so I trimmed it too short and had to attach a separate piece of lining fabric to the inside to make it work. Actually it is impossible to understand it on the inside and it might look even more neat.
I also didn´t bother to turn the edge of the casing for the back opening under, I just serged it and I think it saved me from a lot of work and a lot of excessive fabric around there:
Instead of making the drawstring from the dress fabric, I bought some ribbon in the matching shade and it works even better due to its silkiness, gliding smoothly through the casing. By the way, if it is not clear, the back opening also has rubber band, so the ribbon is there only to secure the opening a little bit from opening too much.
I used iron-on hemming tape for the hem and it saved the dress because I finished it merely two hours before leaving for the hairdresser on the wedding day!
I also used a special pen this time for pattern markings and seam lines. It was supposed to fade off in a few days, but actually it didn´t! The green pen lines showed through the fabric and I desperately tried removing them with a moist towel. Initially the lines seemed to disappear but later when the dress had dried out, the bleeding marks of he green colour were still visible on close inspection. I still wore the dress and I believe no one noticed and thankfully the green was all gone after the first wash, now I just know better the next time!
As it often happens, there was no time to take the photos on the actual day after, so these pictures are taken a week later and at my parents house:
I am super satisfied with the result and I am contemplating making another one in a different fabric. I just love how simple it is, but it has this trick to it with the back opening and flowy skirt.
The shoes are actually my wedding shoes, which I did change quite soon into much more comfortable sneakers even with the wedding dress and below you can see how I wore them during our house tour. The shoes are from Dune and the sneakers from H&M:
Now that this big thing is done, I can relax a bit and hopefully enjoy sewing in the new sewing room soon!
We had the honour of being invited to the wedding of G & O and I was super excited as I have attended quite a few weddings in my life, but never a Russian one. Of course this deserved a dress!
I used pattern no 107 from Burda Style January 2013. I remember seeing this pattern and telling myself that I will definitely make it, but it took me exactly that long to execute the plan, something quite typical as the speed of buying fabrics and patterns will never equal the speed of sewing stuff up…
Again typically I finished the dress late at night the previous evening before the big day and therefore did not manage to make the matching belt. Let´s see if I will get to it at some point or not, since there are so many more ideas next up in line!
I cut the size 38 and I thought the fit was perfect at the bodice, but when I look at the photos, it seems as if there is a little too much ease there. Nevertheless the dress feels super comfortable and I loved wearing it despite the fact that once again I failed to produce a perfect back neckline with the invisible zipper. For some reason it is always a hit or miss for me and more often a miss…
I always leave generous seam allowances for the hip area and this was one of the times when not doing it would have meant that the dress would have been hopelessly too tight without any extra fabric left for correcting the mistakes. Now it just meant adjusting the side seams a bit.
Once again Burda Style surprises me as they have only rated the dress with two stars for difficulty level. I am quite sure that for someone looking for stepping up the game to next level, pulling this off (fully lined, tricky assembly sequences, many pattern pieces) would be too complicated. And it really takes time, I spent several evening just preparing the pieces before I could get to the actual sewing!
Here is a little close-up to show the fabric´s texture a bit better. I bought the fabric from Helsinki probably last year and they had it in baby blue as well as pink and it was hard to choose, but th yellow seemed more special. It was actually quite hard to find a matching lining fabric, but thankfully I finally did.
I got too excited when I was literally hit by the bridal bouquet and completely did not think of taking a photo with the beautiful bride then, but here is one snapshot from the party and the bouquet itself next morning:
We are next up in line and I guess it is needless to say that we are very excited about it!
It looks to me that its a current big thing to have embroidered roses or whatever other embroidered patches on clothes and when I finally decided to realize my idea of sewing an off-the-shoulder black and white striped top, I thought it would be a fun detail to add.
The idea of such a top is so old that the fabric for it has been in my stash since I left Athens in 2012! In the meanwhile I have luckily bought a serger so I guess it was meant to be merely an idea for such a long time, as it is definitely a serger project!
The pattern is Simplicity 1613:
This time I cut size 10 as I definitely did not want this style to be too loose on me. As a result, it is somewhat tight over the waist and perfectly prevents me from eating too much 🙂
The top has a tunnel and elastic around the shoulders to keep things neat, but I made a mistake there by trying to outsmart the pattern designers – the trick is that the elastic has to be cut long enough to go around the shoulders but tight enough to stay up. It looked to me that the elastic was too long so I shortened it, but this makes the top pop up over the shoulder every time I lift my arms too high. So if you are making this top, cut the elastic exactly as long as the pattern says, then it will be perfectly loose enough not to do that and tight enough to stay put.
I have enough fabric for at least one more such top and it is quite likely that I will make another one since I love the style and I could make the second one fit better in that shoulder area.
The embroidered rose patch is the iron-on type and I got if off Aliexpress for 0,95 $ and free shipping. The choice is immense, but I got lucky since mine is of excellent quality.
Now you may have noticed that these photos don´t look anything like Estonia and you are right – I had the privilege to take part in a work-related conference in London during the past week and one of my sweet colleagues agreed to snap the photos on our last morning there.
As usually, the time-table during such events is very tight, but there were a few free hours on one day and I took the chance to check out Berwick Street in Soho for some fabrics. There are quite a few shops on that street, starting with Misan Brothers, that offers a beautiful choice of high-end fabrics, up to the Cloth House that has an interesting range of fabrics from Japan. Since their price level was more affordable, this is were I made my purchase.
The Cloth House:
I got a beautiful kimono-style crepe that has an amazing drape:
I remember when I first saw the model 116 top in Burdastyle 3/2017, I thought: “Gee, I love it, but I would never bother to cut and sew all those bands!”. But the design stuck in my head and a little later I realized I had the perfect fabric for it ready in stash.
I bought the (quite flimsy) cotton batiste with embroidery on one edge last year from a small fabric shop in Tartu and initially planned to turn it into a girlie skirt one day.
However, after all the cutting and fiddling with the bands (didn´t I say in my last post that I am not good at sewing sharp angles? Well, it appears I am not good at sewing round edges either!), I turned it into this top instead:
I considered using the embroidery pattern provided in the magazine to copy the original design, but the last time I embroidered was in elementary school crafts class, so eventually I decided not to take the risk. I also considered embroidering with beads, but that would compromise ironing the garment and cotton batiste just has to be ironed every time after wash. So the result is somewhat plain, but I hope the wide lace will make up for it!
I didnt have enough lace fabric for the back, so I just used a piece of plain batiste there.
Some close ups:
I think eventually it is a better use of the fabric than the skirt would have been, now let´s just hope that the weather will give me enough chances to wear it!
See siin on toidublogi, mida kirjutab Mari-Liis Ilover. Kõik tekstid ja fotod keerlevad ümber toidu. Selle kasvatamise, hankimise, valmistamise ja nautimise. Rõhk on ehedal, puhtal ja maitsval kodutoidul, PÄRIS toidul. Sekka muljeid söögikohtadest. Kui tunned, et oled sattunud õigesse kohta - siis tere tulemast, nautigem koos!